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It is a bit frustrating to get those small holes in an otherwise good jig but that's how it goes with any router I think. I have to do the whole peak under the baseplate to get the pivot pin into the correct hole.
Mainly it is the mounting hole compatability.I have to tap out three holes (my router has four holes for mounting different baseplates). Reason for this, no matter how I turn and rotate the plate on my base-less router, I can only see myself putting three holes unless I give up some circle points.
I own a 2 1/4 HP Triton router and the best router in my opinion does not work right away with the best pre-holed circle jig. holes that are ranging below 7 inches or so in diameter.
The router is for the most part going to be in a position where the baseplate isn't a support anyways, but it is indeed a detail to consider.It also helps that I already purchased and used another good product to pair with my router, the Veritas base plate for router table ability. I took out the alignment sheet for my router's holes and before I even took the circle jig out of the package (since the center is already marked and there), and poked marked holes to where I will be drilling.Now for the other caveat.
I have to use the duct tape method in covering up not needed holes so only the right one shows. Mine just cuts off at 7 inches before I resort to that.If one wants perfect, normal to the surface, holes without the messiness and uncleanliness of those regular hole saws, and to be able to do so at a certain steps of sizes, I would recommend this item but check your router first.
I also have the Model 400 for smaller holes as well and it is just as accurate as its bigger cousin. Not much more that I can add to the other reviews here. Nice Products For Sure. This is a great router attachment for routing out recessed areas and holes for speaker builds or anything else that you can think of. It is accurate and attaches easily to router models it is intended for. Purchased from Amazon with two day delivery and nice packaging. THANKS AMAZON.
In terms of versatility, making the jig cut at least a 19 inch hole would have been better. On that note though, is where it loses one star for me.
No more measuring off the distance on your router, all the measurements are done for you. Simply put, this circle jig is the best I have yet used.
However since my router is not officially listed as compatible it is really no fault of the product.All my holes come out with precision and neatness, and this tool is very useful for making flushed in speaker baffles. I used this jig with a Skil 1825 and it bolted right up to the base (for the most part).
My only complaint on mounting is that the provided screws were to long with the factory base plate removed so I had to find others. This jig will not cut a hole large enough to flush in a typical 18 inch driver.
Again, not a huge deal, but it does create inconvenience when working with 18 inch drivers.
If you make speaker cabinets, this jig makes cutting the baffle holes a breeze. You won't be sorry with this purchase.
Also, it pays to use your plunge router's stops to take partial depth cuts. The product includes a 1/8" pin that goes through the jig and into the center of your workpiece.
While it may be possible to use it with fixed base routers, I think it would be tricky and might compromise the tool's built in accuracy. A guide for selecting mounting holes for many routers is printed on the back of the shipping card, and was easy to follow.
This product is designed to work with plunge routers. Good quality double sided "turner's tape" worked well for me.
The product includes a pin and insert to allow centering on your router's base. In use, some things worth mentioning: It is imperative you attach your workpiece to a substrate, both inside and outside the selected diameter circle you're cutting so as the cut is completed, nothing moves.
Might also be a good idea to drill into the substrate a bit as well, a touch more insurance the center piece doesn't move and ruin your cut.Be aware you'll be turning the entire router around the central pivot, so leave yourself some room to walk around it so you can keep a good grip on your router's handles. I went through half inch hardwood plywood with a solid carbide Freud bit in three passes, leaving only about an eighth for the final pass to minimize forces on that turner's tape I used to hold things together, and had no problems.
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